Goodbye Madrid

I am now back in Canada.  My Madrid adventure is over.  In the last couple of weeks the rain finally stopped and we got some sunshine.  My last week was filled with sad goodbyes, a picnic in Retiro Park, lunch in Plaza Santa Ana, and my final Sunday night was spent in La Latina followed by some jazz at El Junco.  I will miss all of my favourite things about living in Madrid but I am quite happy to be home.  I have fantastic memories exploring the city and doing lots of travelling with great new friends.

I would like take this last post to mention two places I can’t believe I haven’t mentioned before now – the mercados.  If anyone has planned or is planning a trip to Madrid, it is quite likely you have heard of Mercado San Miguel near Sol.  It is a covered market but the idea isn’t to get your groceries and go home…it’s a cafeteria style restaurant.  Each stand offers something different.  There is the seafood stand, the wine stand, hamburgers, sushi, pinxos, paella, cheese, jamon, etc.  To go as a group and find an available table is great.  Everyone takes turn going into the market, grab their favourite dish and bring back to share.

I love the social aspect to it, the busy atmosphere, and the ability to taste just a little bit of everything.

Mercado San Anton is located in Chueca and has a bit of a different draw than Mercado San Miguel.  It is quite a bit more modern and has three floors.

The first floor has your traditional market where you can buy food to take home and prepare yourself.  You can get some seafood, hamburger patties, cheese, meat, fruit, etc.

The second floor is a bit more like San Miguel in that the food is prepared to be eaten at the  bar that runs along the inside of the market.  My favourite is by far the Greek station with its garlicy salads, different finger foods and the best Greek yogourt I’ve ever had.  I also love the Seafood station where the calamari is very fresh, breaded with delicious herbs and fried.  

The third floor holds a couple of restaurants and an outdoor terrace with a bar and couches to lounge on.  I have enjoyed the mojitos at the bar on a few occasions, but never tried either of the restaurants.  I have heard that you can buy food from the first floor and take it up to the third floor to be cooked.

I think the two mercados give a sense of the different personalities of Madrid that I will miss so much.  One is traditional and classy and the other is modern and diverse, but both have a unique Spanish flare.  While this will be my last blog post for Mastering Madrid, who knows what will come next.  I may have the opportunity to resurrect it in the future or start a new blog in another country.

I have had an amazing time and my word of advice to my readers is to always be open to a new adventure.  I had my share of challenges in Madrid, but there are so many things I was exposed to that I love and would have never experienced as a tourist.  I now have a diverse group of friends, some who I relied on like family this year.  I fully appreciate this experience and hope the next step is just as exciting and challenging.

Thank you!

Sundays in Madrid

Sundays in Madrid mean two things to me – La Latina and jazz.  With the countdown of my last month in Madrid on, I have been trying to cram in as many of my favourite activities as possible.  This past Sunday was particularly jam packed with fun.

I started out with trying a new jazz bar.  Just last week I had heard about Cafe Central near Sol and was told it was one of the best places in Madrid to see jazz.  Then on Sunday another friend said it was great and asked if I wanted to join a group to check it out.  When I hear about a place twice in one week, I figure it is worth a try.  Cafe Central’s jazz show starts at 9 and it pays to go early to get a ticket and good seat.  It got a little crowded.  The jazz was great and there was a good atmosphere.

After Cafe Central I met up with some friends in La Latina.  This is the neighbourhood where all of Madrid seems to go starting Sunday afternoon and keeps hopping until late in the night.  My favourite, which you can only do with a small group of friends, is to bar hop.  Having a copa in one place, some pinchos in the next and making your way through La Latina is a great way to spend the evening.  Once again, the bars and restaurants tend to get crowded, but everyone is having a good time.

Then, considering none of us had anything going on Monday morning, we made our way to El Junco, a late night jazz bar that I frequented many Sundays over the course of the year. It doesn’t open until 11pm, but its worth staying awake for.  Sunday nights are jam night.  There is a house band (which recently changed and I prefer the previous house band), but musicians are invited to show up with their instruments and join in.  I have seen some great singers, harmonica players and trumpet players, etc. hop up on the stage and get the entire place rocking!  I always enjoy that type of unplanned bursts of energy and creation.

El Junco is definitely one of the places I will miss in Madrid.  And I will definitely miss Sunday adventures.  This past Sunday was probably the busiest I’ve had, but I have to pack as much fun into the next month as I can!

Taste of Mexico

A few weeks ago I had some of the best Mexican food I’ve had in Madrid.  Scratch that.  I will go so far as to say the best Mexican food I’ve EVER had.  Although that isn’t saying much.  I’ve never been to Mexico and the options in Toronto are limited.

I went with a few friends to a place called Taqueria del Alamillo.  It is located at Plaza Alamillo, 8 near La Latina.  My friend had to make a reservation far in advance, but I can see why.  It is a small restaurant but is packed with some great taste.

We started with some margaritas and guacamole and a baked cheese dish.  Great start.  We then had some tacos as another appetizer.  By the time we were done this I was already feeling satisfied.  But then the main courses came.  I had a chicken molahete.  I had never tried it before and it came in a hot bowl that looked like a small cauldron.  Packed into the tortillas, it was quite tasty – although I could have done with a bit more spice.  It was only towards the end that my Mexican friend showed me how to fold the tortilla so that it won’t make a huge mess.

I also tried a bit of my friend’s dish – mole enchiladas.  The mole sauce is a mix of chocolate and spices.  I had never heard of it before but was very intrigued.  I really liked it too!

It was a great meal and I hope to make it back at least once before I leave Madrid.  If you are thinking of going (which I recommend), call ahead.  The phone number is 91 364 20 88.

My Weekends in Italy

Thanks to some random timing, I spent two weekends in Italy in February.  As part of my attempt to experience as many European festivals as I can, my friends and I headed to Venice for Carnivale.  From February 10-12 my friends and I walked the canals and admired some of the extravegant costumes.

There was not that much to do, but we had a great time walking around, warming up from the frigid cold with Italian cappuccinos and shopping for our own carnival masks.  And the fast-food pizza slices put anything offered in Canada to shame.

I also have an Italian friend that has worked in Milan for years and was doing an internship in Milan.  So from February 17-19, we headed to visit him and get the insider’s view of the city.  I just love going to visit the home-cities of my international friends.  It is a more personalized way to discover a city.  Besides getting to see what they consider important, you get a little history and story along the way.  Like many such trips, most of it was spent eating.  Our Saturday was as follows: pastry shop, panzerotti shop, fish restaurant, bakery, siesta, Italian dinner (see links below).

We did make it into the Duomo cathedral and it was definitely a sight to see.  I even had some reflective moments admiring some of the statues…similar to the moment I had looking at the da Vinci statue in the summer.

It was a filling day but I would suggest the following visits if you find yourself in Milan:

Luini’s Panzerotti – Via S. Radegonda 16 (near Duomo)
da Claudio – Via Cusani, 1
di Viole di Liquirizia – Via Madonnina 10
Osteria Delbinari Bistrot –  Via Tortona, 3

I may have gained 10 pounds over the course of the two weekends and my clothes are feeling a bit tight now…but totally worth it.  Italy definitely lives up to its food reputation!

Skiing in Spain

Contrary to what I imagined, there are a number of places to ski in Spain.  I think the most famous are the Pyrenees, which border France.  However, From February 3-5 I had my first European ski experience in Sierra Nevada, near Granada – a four hour drive from Madrid.  To cut costs, we stayed in Granada rather than the ski village, but the drive up was great so I am glad I got to do it twice during the weekend.

It was somewhat cloudy and the snow wasn’t quite powder.  But there was definitely some great skiing to be had.  And the views were fantastic!

I was very excited to have the European apres-ski experience and we found a couple of places to stop that fulfilled everything I imagined.  There was one mid-way down the hill, with modern decoration, an orange theme, a chilled-out vibe and the best hot chocolate I’ve ever had – with a hint of orange flavouring.  At the end of the day we went to a bar with great music, seats around the fireplace and a mulled wine to warm me up.

It was a great weekend and I am considering trying out another ski resort in Spain before the season is over.

Some Underground Spanish Culture

Last night a couple girlfriends took me to a great new discovery,  Microteatro.  Small and hidden away in Malasaña, this micro-theatre is some Madrid culture that you would not find in your Lonely Planet.

From Wednesday to Sunday, the bar holds short 15-minute plays, one in one of four small rooms-turned-theatre.  The plays are in Spanish, so I could only understand about 15% of what was being said…but it was good practice and I could follow basically what was going on by the action of the scene.

Although each play is repeated a number of times each night, here is only room enough to seat 15 people.  So if you want to get tickets you better show up early, around 9:00pm.

The upstairs is a bar packed with people waiting for their ticket to be called on the hanging screen.

If you are in Madrid and know Spanish, or like me, trying to learn Spanish, it is worth going.  Tickets are only 4 Euro so it is a cheap way to see some local entertainment.

Casa Mingo

I have recently discovered a great new restaurant in Madrid – Casa Mingo.  Located near the Principe Pio station and established in 1888, Casa Mingo is a restaurant with a long history in Madrid.  Its looks are quite deceiving.  The first time I went, we were in the main area.  The second time I went there were well over 30 of us.  I walked into the restaurant and it was packed.  I could not believe they would be able to sit us all in there.  But then we were taken outside around the building and up a flight of stairs.  There was a whole other dining area!  And a big outdoor tent that was heated.  This place could probably take over 200 people at once.

While the restaurant is quite big, the menu is quite small.  I have been twice now and the process has been the same process.  The appetizers were monchego cheese and churizo.  This place has some of the greatest churizo I’ve had in Madrid.  The main course was roasted chicken.  Now if you like roasted chicken, this is the place to go.  If not, you might want to eat somewhere else…because the alternatives are limited.

We suppliment the meal with a constant flow of cider.  Casa Mingo is probably the place in Madrid to get cider, a Spanish specialty.

We had a nice big group so were able to have some fun with the corks.

Do you know what the best part of the meal was?  The price.  Despite all the appetizers, chickens and cider, it came to about 15 EUROs per person.  I have been trying to cut back my spending, but I like to go out and can rarely have a meal for less than 25. So this discovery is going to become a regular trip in the coming months.  Casa Mingo is definitely worth going.  There is something to be said for a place that does one thing really, really well.

A Little Bit of Advice: Protect Your NIE with Your Life

Back in September, I lost my small change purse that I was carrying  that had my NIE, my bank card and some cash.  Maybe it was stolen, maybe it fell out of my purse.  Either way it was gone.  It was quite easy to call the bank and have the bank card replaced.  Losing the cash was a bummer, but only set me back a nice dinner or two.  However, losing my NIE has turned out to be my biggest headache since trying to get Internet installed.

I am lucky that the Student Office at my school is there to help with these types of situations.  If just me I would have been completely lost.  I probably would have never found the website I needed for information, phone number or place to go.  However, even with advice, I have had much success.  I was told I would have to go to the Police Station (an hour by metro) to get an appointment to get a duplicate of my NIE.  I would then have to go back for the appointment.  Then go back to pick up the card.  I also needed the duplicate in order to RENEW the card when it expires in February.  So I saw a long process of many trips to the police station.  Unfortunately, with the MBA, my spare time for afternoons spent going to the police station were limited (at least before Christmas).

So, armed with the documents I would need, I went to the police station to make an appointment.  Once there, I asked someone in my very best Spanish to point me to the line for duplicate NIEs.  He pointed and I entered the line.  Sat for an hour and finally got to the front.  Figuring I was already there, I handed the customer service person my documents.  He told me that he could not give me a duplicate.  He explained why, but my Spanish is still not so good as to understand someone who is talking fast of in advanced vocabulary.  So, I did not understand.  I asked if I needed an appointment.  He said something else I didn’t understand.  We played 5 minutes of me asking a question and him saying something I did not understand.  I asked if there was someone who spoke English that could help me.  No.  There was nothing he could do.  So I left and put off going back for a few more weeks.

Just before holidays, I went back.  I wanted to make the appointment, but I also needed a letter of permission to re-enter the country after the holidays.  I started with the line to get my permission for re-entry.  Once again I waited and luckily enough, I got someone who spoke English.  I gave him my documents.  He said I also needed a confirmation of an appointment to replace my lost NIE and to get my permission for re-entry. He I needed to do make the appointment online but there were none available.  After about an hour’s work, he was able to help me get my permission for re-entry, but I still did not have an appointment for getting my NIE replaced.

I went home for Christmas and post-poned my worries for a while.  When I came back I went to the website the student office had shared with me but didn’t see where to make an appointment.  I emailed the student office and was told the appointments could only be made in person but it was now too close to when my NIE expired.  I would have to apply for the renewal directly, without a current copy of my card.  This news was relief to my ears.  I am now in the process of collecting the documents I need for my renewal together.  Fingers are crossed that I can accomplish this.  But through the experience I learned one important lesson: the Spanish system is frustrating and should be avoided at all costs.  And so…NEVER lose your NIE.

Merry Christmas

I write now from Toronto, Canada.  It is the first time I have been home in over 10 months.  It makes me realize how quickly time flies.  I feel like the last year has flown by, but I look at my friends kids and see that I’ve missed a lot.

Sometimes I forget that I have been living in such a great city.  Much of the time I go from home to school to restaurant to home again.  I rarely ever take the time to just explore the city. However, I did make it out once or twice to go Christmas shopping.  It was amazing how nicely decorated the city was for the holidays.  Most of the major streets had light display ceilings.

My favourite was the one with these gold-light chandelier-type hangings.

There were also trees made of lights all over the city.  The biggest one was the one in Puerta de Sol.

I even managed to stumble upon the Christmas Market one day.  There was not much I wanted to buy and it was crowded with too many people, but I enjoyed checking it out nonetheless.

Madrid Christmas Market *Stolen from Jen

I feel so lucky to live in such an amazing city, and feel terrible that I don’t take advantage of that more.  Some of my favourite days have been just wandering around the city, including the scavenger hunt I did this fall with my friends.  That realized, I have two New Years Resolutions for when I return to Madrid…explore the city more (and blog my findings) and work more on my Spanish.

A (North) American Thanksgiving in Madrid

This past Saturday I celebrated Thanksgiving with a group of Americans and some of our international classmates.  This meant Thanksgiving came a bit late for me this year (Canadian Thanksgiving is at the beginning of October), but a late turkey dinner is better than no turkey dinner.  And I am very thanksful to my American friends for making me feel included in their holiday.

the Americans

the Canadians

the Internationals

Nearly 40 people, 3 turkeys, 15+ dishes and 10+ cakes/pies made for hands down the biggest Thanksgiving feast I’ve ever had.

My contribution - trying to recreate my Nana's apple pie

The best part was everyone volunteered for the dishes they were best at so I had the chance to try some of the most creative and delicious Thanksgiving dishes I’ve ever tried.

One friend even recorded some American football to watch after the meal (no hockey though).

I will say one of the challeneges of cooking a North American meal in Spain is finding North American food/ingrediants.  For those who are interested in doing your own Thanksgiving in Madrid, there are some places you can go.  To get a turkey (or pavo), you can go to a polleria or market.  Our delicious turkeys came from Mercado Chamberi.  You can also find some North American favourites at Taste of America on Calle Serrano or the American Store at Paseo de San Francisco de Sales.

Part of me was just happy to be able to enjoy one of my favourite holidays even though I am in a country that doesn’t celebrate.  I typically spend the day with my family and some close family friends and was sad that I couldn’t be there this year.  However, I am very thankful to be able to share that day with my “Madrid family”.

One of the great parts of this year is experiencing many new cultures as well as sharing my own.  The day after Thanksgiving I went to the house of a German friend for a traditional German “First of Advent” baking fest.  It was a fun day as I write I am finishing up the last of my cookies.  Although my time in Madrid is flying by very quickly, I look forward to sharing more with my international friends.